1996 Scared Stiff Pinball
by email@example.com, 03/25/03.
Copyright 1999-2003, all rights reserved.
Updates of this document are available for no cost at http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm if you have Internet access.
Table of Contents
LED Skull Pile Eyes Upgrade
The six tales as shown on the playfield of Scared Stiff.
Tools you will need for this modification:
Hosfelt's phone number is 1-800-524-6464.
Step One: Remove the Skulls.
Right: view from the top, showing the two small plastic spacers.
There are two sides to each LED (light emitting diode); the cathode and the anode. These are identified by the "flat side" on the LED's. You'll have to look closely to see it, but you will need to identify the "flat edge".
At this point, *TEST* your LED/diode/resistor installation to make sure it works. I suggest lifting the playfield, and test connecting the modified LED eyes to one of the "tales" light sockets under the playfield. If the eye LEDs do not work, the attached 1N4004 diode and resistor are "reversed". To fix this, connect the banded side of the 1N4004 diode to the FLAT side its LED, and solder the 100 ohm resistor the ROUND side of the other LED. Then retest. I bought my diodes from Hosfelt, and it turned out they were mis-manufacturered and the flat side was mis-labeled! So always best to assemble one and make sure it works before doing all the others.
To be honest, the 1N4004 diodes are probably not really necessary. The LEDs themselves are essentially diodes anyway. So adding a 1N4004 diode is redundant. But I added them anyway. The resistors though are necessary!
After the installation of the resistor and diode is confirmed and verified, solder a 1.5 foot length of YELLOW wire to the other NON-BANDED side of the 1N4004 diode. And solder a 1.5 foot length of RED wire to the other side of the 100 ohm resistor. Also solder these two twisted LED leads together.
Finally put a length of 1/8" diameter heat shrink tubing over the diode and lead of the LED, and heat shrink the end so it doesn't move. Also put a length of 1/8" diameter heat shrink tubing over the resistor and lead of the LED, and heat shrink the end so it doesn't move.
Now repeat for the other five sets of eyes.
Note the (flat or round) side of the LED matters! If you
do this step incorrectly, the LED's will never work! Also
note the banded side of the 1N4004 diode goes toward the LED.
Insert each pair of LED eyes into the skull; they should slip in fairly easily. You can secure the LED's with a hot melt glue gun or some thick-style super glue if desired. After installing, use some masking tape and label each of the two wires coming off the eye pairs. Label them top, middle left, middle right, bottom left, bottom middle, bottom right as appropriate. Which LED goes to which wire DOES matter (kind of). The order shown below in the picture used here works well, and makes the attract mode look better.
If using different colored LEDs, here is a good suggestion for order.
Right: The eye pairs as installed into the skulls. Note the two non-component LED leads are soldered together. The red heat shrink tubing hides the diode or resistor that is soldered to the legs of each LED.
Step Four: Add the Yellow Wire Connector Plug.
Take the top, middle left, and middle right yellow LED skull wires and tie them together. Put a single crimp-on male .062" molex pin on these wires. Plug this pin into the connector plug's middle row, left hole (as facing the connector pins, as though you are the other connector). This connects to the column lamp matrix's yellow/blue wire.
bottom three skull LED's go to the center plug.
Note the "w" edge across the top of the plug
Take the left bottom row and left middle row red LED skull wires and tie them together. Put a single crimp-on male .062" molex pin on these wires. Plug this pin into the connector plug's top row, left hole (as facing the connector pins, as though you are the other connector). This connects to the row lamp matrix's red/orange wire.
Take the top and bottom middle row red LED skull wires and tie them together. Put a single crimp-on male .062" molex pin on these wires. Plug this pin into the connector plug's top row, left hole (as facing the connector pins, as though you are the other connector). This connects to the row lamp matrix's red/black wire.
Take the right bottom row and right middle row red LED skull wires and tie them together. Put a single crimp-on male .062" molex pin on these wires. Plug this pin into the connector plug's top row, right hole (as facing the connector pins, as though you are the other connector). This connects to the row lamp matrix's red/brown wire.
left middle row skull LED's go to the left connector pin. The
top row and bottom middle row skull LED's go to the center
connector pin. Note the "w" edge across the top of the plug
With the skull LED eyes and connectors in place, install the skulls back into the playfield. The new skull LED wires go down to the playfield and through the large existing hole there. Don't forget the small black plastic spacers that go on the two screws that hold the skulls in place.
Step Seven: Connect the New Plugs to the Wiring Harness.
Left: The new connector plugs attached
Eyeball Shooter Upgrade
A new "eyeball" shooter.
Frogs Replacement Parts
To install a new frog, you will have to drill the bottom of the frog with a 1/8" drill bit and insert the activator into the hole.
Boogie Men Modification
Sample game style slingshot kickers, used to
During testing of the sample games, Williams noted the boogie men self-amputated their arms from the slingshot kickers. To "fix" this problem, they made the boogie men stationary in the production games. But even the latest version of the game software still makes the slingshot kickers "kick" during boogie man mode.
You can't buy the parts to make the boogie men dance. Since these parts are essentially unavailable, I came up with another idea to make the boogie men "dance".
Instead of making the men actually move, I added flasher bulbs to the slingshots. Now during boogie man mode, the slingshots will still kick (assuming you have this option turned ON in the software), AND a flashlamp will light too. This gives the boogie men more "flash".
Since I have no way to re-write the software to activate the new flashers, I used hardware instead. A switch is added to each of the two slingshot kickers. When the kicker is energized, it closes this new switch. Each switch is tied to its own Gottlieb "pop bumper driver board" (PBDB), which activates a flash bulb.
Note that someone has made the original sample game style slingshot kicker parts, to make your boogie men really "dance". See http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Shire/2747/kitbm.html for more information on these.
These are exact boogiemen replacements.
Left: Boogie men as used in "Elvira and the Party
Monsters", 1989, from Smilemakers.com. These allow light to
shine thru their body, and work great with a flash bulb mounted
inside their body.
Installation of a PBDB's under the playfield under the "tales of terrior"
The leaf switch should be normally open while the slignshot kicker is
Both slingshot kickers with their switches installed.
All the parts installed under the playfield. Shown are the two
Left: The new transparent boogie man mounted on it's original metal
bracket. The lamp socket and #194 lamp are inside the
boogie man's head. The socket is secured to the bracket with
electrical tape. The socket leads are encased in 3/32" shrink
If using the stock boogie men production setup, do this:
Left: The pop bumper lamp socket and #194 lamp
installed on the sample game style slingshot
kicker. Note the position of the nylon tie, and the
"knot" on the nylon tie.
If using the Sample game style kicking boogie men, do this:
A stationary, production game boogie man with a #194 lamp and
Connector J101 on the power driver board.
The following steps connects all installed parts to the PBDB. The pin numbers for the connector on the PBDB are this: 6 5 4 KEY 2 1.
With this modification, anytime the slignshot kicker is activated (either by a pinball, or by the software in boogie man mode), the newly installed flasher will light (even when the game is in attract mode). Note the coin door MUST be CLOSED for all flashers to work!
* Go to the Pin Fix-It Index at http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm
* Go to Marvin's Marvelous Mechanical Museum at http://marvin3m.com